The Handsome And Charmingly Busy Tissot Telemeter 1938
Caliber: Panerai Caliber P.6000Functions: Hours, minutes (PAM00753), Hours, minutes, small seconds (PAM000754)Diameter: 34.90mmPower Reserve: 72 hours Winding: Hand-woundFrequency: 3 falske vacheron-constantin klokker Hz (21,600 vph)Jewels: 19The bezel on this example is perfectly intact, and the dial and hands look honest and original. But what’s really outstanding is the presence of the original mesh bracelet, which is now both extremely hard to find and a signature trait of the SuperOcean line at large. You can’t ask for much more, can you?European Watch Company in Boston is selling this example of the ref. 1004 for $22,500. Click here for the full listing.If you saw the new SBGW263 and thought, "Wow, this has to be as far as Grand Seiko can push it," boy are you going to like the SBGD205, also known as the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch. Based on the Spring Drive 8 Days platform that was first introduced back in 2016, this watch combines a long-running Spring Drive caliber with an engraved and gem-set dial and case for a watch that's truly over-the-top.Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm In Yellow Gold Ref. 26240BA; 41mm diameter by 12.4mm thick 18k yellow gold case, with 50m water resistance. Smoked yellow gold-toned dial with Grande Tapisserie pattern, applied yellow gold hour markers, and Royal Oak hands with luminous coating. Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, seconds, date. Self-winding caliber 4401 movement running at 28,800 vph with 70 hours of power reserve. Yellow gold bracelet with AP folding clasp. Price: $75,900.To complement these, Apple has updated their two metal straps – the Milanese Loop and Link Bracelet. We haven't seen an update to either of these for many generations now, but I think both are industry leading (better engineered and more comfortable than most coming from the watch industry, to be honest) and I'm glad to see these get new life. They now come in PVD finishes to match the titanium cases, but stay in stainless steel.The empty space on the dial – with the Arabic/dot indices – continues to the first series of dials for the 2497. The day of the week and month remain in cutout windows at 12 o'clock. But by moving to center seconds with the Caliber 27SC Q manual movement, the ref. 2497 changed a few things on the dial layout.
Hublot is not a brand known for its subtlety. Whether you think that's a good thing or a bad thing, it just is. Experimental LaFerrari watches, full-on sapphire Big Bang chronographs, and quirky collaborations with contemporary artists are more Hublot's speed. But the watch we have here today is a relatively restrained, finely detailed triple calendar with moonphase in one of the more wearable 42mm cases you'll find anywhere. This is, without question, my favorite Hublot yet.Caliber: LF 619.01Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillonDiameter: 31.6mmThickness: 5.57mmPower Reserve: 80 hoursWinding: Manual falsos montblanc Relojes Frequency: 21,600 vphJewels: 23Chronometer Certified: Yes, via the Besançon Observatory Additional Details: Movement also features a double balance spring in conjunction with the tourbillon and a special ruthenium finishing.All of this testing led to refinements like the integrated rubber strap with a central lug system, big block luminous orange indices which stand out against a black dial that absorbs 97% of light, and a touch of the original Fifty Fathoms design in the bakelite-esque bezel which has been subtly adjusted so it can be more easily gripped underwater with gloves on. The bezel also features luminous numerals that help track the three-hour hand as it counts the elapsed dive time.At the watch fair in Basel, Switzerland, in 1962, Rado successfully introduced the world to the first scratch-proof watch, presenting itself as a brand unafraid to take stylistic risks in favor of bold, forward-thinking design: the DiaStar. With its fascinating oblong case crafted out of a proprietary tungsten carbide "Hardmetal" alloy that was both diamond-tough and lustrous, Rado leaned into the Space Age style that gripped the world of design throughout the early 60s.
Still, these are falsos richard-miller relógios well-designed and fairly-priced watches. The most popular watch in the collection, the Sif N.A.R.T. 1948, is powered by a Soprod M100 Date automatic movement, features an Incabloc shock protection system, and is adjusted to five positions. The watch is water resistant to a depth of 1,000 meters.Brand: OmegaModel: Speedmaster 321 Canopus GoldReference Number: 311.50.39.30.01.001Diameter: 38.6mmCase Material: Canopus 18K gold (Omega's own version of white gold)Dial Color: BlackIndexes: AppliedLume: YesWater Resistance: 60 meters Strap/Bracelet: Canopus 18k gold braceletPerhaps most importantly, Selmoni says the bold, square case is in good condition, and while it's clear that time has passed – especially on the dial – the originality of this Cioccolatone is what makes it so appealing to collectors. Just as exciting, Sotheby's says the example is fresh to market. This ref. 4764 Cioccolatone at Sotheby's has an estimate of CHF 500,000 to 1 million – check it out here.For now, the competition seems only positive for consumers. Together, Omega and Tudor are pushing a new standard (and expectation) of accuracy and reliability for mechanical watches. Do your watches really need to be anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss and water-resistant to 200 meters? For the most part no, of course not. But it's exciting that Omega, and now Tudor, continue to pursue technical proficiency for its own sake, all for about five thousand bucks.
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