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The Hi-Beat Special SBGH266 shares several design features with the platinum VFA model, SBGH265, including the case design, as well as a dial engraved with a spiral pattern which uses the G and S of the Grand Réplicas Richard Mille rm 016 Seiko logo, alternating with a symbol used to designate watches made by Daini Seikosha. The latter – now Seiko Instruments Inc. – was the Seiko division that developed the first Grand Seiko Hi-Beat movement, in 1969 (it's now Seiko Instruments Inc.).Likewise, the tonal silver dials are the standouts for me. They have a hint of vintage charm without looking like they're play acting at being something too serious. Whether you go for Explorer-style numerals or a more sector-looking variant, I think there are quite a few good options in the collection right now.We're also shown the Breguet No. 1160 watch, an exact replica of Breguet's celebrated No. 160, the "Marie Antoinette" watch, which stood for a century as the world's most complicated watch. It was stolen from a Jerusalem museum in 1983 and later recovered. While it was still missing, Hayek Sr. decided to recreate it. "It was a challenge that Nicolas Hayek wanted his house, his baby, to take on," our guide tell us. It was unveiled in 2008.The movement we were working on was an ETA 6497, which was used in pocket watches in the late 1930s and '40s, and which now goes into larger wristwatches. This movement has 79 components, many of which are screws. Disassembling is mostly, but not all, about removing tiny screws with the correct-sized screwdriver. The screws are color coded, or at least in class they were.Last week, UNIMATIC dropped a 36mm limited edition duo crafted with smaller watch lovers in mind. If you missed it the last time, G-SHOCK's 'Shougeki-Maru' MR-G Limited Edition has returned to our digital storefront.This once obscure subset of artisanal craft has been elevated to new heights by modern consumers, but also by Tay, his father, and The Hour Glass, who were early supporters of names like F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour (and former owners of brands such as Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth). In fact, Asia has become one of the largest markets in the world not just for watches in general, but for these kinds of modern technical craftsmen.
At a slightly higher price, and with a somewhat more conventionally Swiss finish to the movement, there's the Parmigiani fausses Richard Mille montres Fleurier Tonda 1950. This is a very traditionally styled watch (not for nothing is 1950 part of the name) with a 40mm x 8.2mm steel case.Brand: Parmigiani FleurierModel: Kalpagraphe ChronometreReference Number: 193-1002500-HA3242 Dimensions: 39.8 x 31.9mmThickness: 14mmCase Material: Rose goldDial Color: BlueIndexes: Applied 18k goldLume: On hands and indexesWater Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: Blue alligator leather by HermèsBreguet is naturally most often thought of as a watch company, but one of Breguet's grandsons founded Breguet Aviation, as well (though the two companies had no connection other than the family name). Breguet, the watchmaker, originally produced Type XX watches under contract for the French government – the name was a specification and not a watch model per se, and they were designed with the needs of military aviators in mind.There are some noticeable differences between the first steel version and the current model. These include the use of mother-of-pearl powder in the blue lacquer that represents the oceans, and the use of Super-LumiNova along the shorelines of the continent (I don't know if it was deliberate, but it's a nice shout-out to the phenomenon of shoreline bioluminescence). The bridge securing the upper pivot of the rotating hemisphere has also been redesigned.The Aquanaut Luce is the "ladies'" gem-set offshoot of the Aquanaut, and while I live for a baby Aquanaut, aka "Mini Luce," ref. 4961A, I am also okay with a slightly larger size. It makes the watch something closer to gender neutral, if a wrist full of jewels can be called that.I mean, this one was a no-brainer for me. Sure, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold is certainly not as restrained as some of my colleagues' picks, but then again, it's no Berkley Grand Comp either. It's been no surprise this year to hear that most people think 2024 was a soft year for watch releases in general. That doesn't mean that there weren't some heavy hitters, though. Like this one.
Caliber: Modified Caliber BE-11MFunctions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power reserve indicatorDiameter: 32.4mmThickness: 4.8mm Power Reserve: 8 Days Winding: Manual Frequency: 3.5 Hz (21,600 vph)Jewels: 33 jewelsFollowing Clemente's death, the Commissioner's Award, a tradition started in 1971, was renamed the Roberto Clemente Award. The award is given every year to a baseball player Replica Richard Mille uhren that "best exemplifies the game of baseball, sportsmanship, community involvement and the individual's contribution to his team." The first award was given to Willie Mays, and in 2014, it was given to two players: Paul Konerko and Jimmy Rollins. Most recently, it was issued to Carlos Carrasco.Visible through a display caseback, the movement has been treated to a finish that matches the gunmetal aesthetic of the GMT One. As you would expect, the specs are largely unchanged from the production BB GMT, with a 41mm case size, 14.6mm thickness, a full steel bracelet, and 200 meters of water resistance.Now let's not get too excited – a new reference doesn't always mean dramatic changes, but in this case, that's a wonderful thing. The slim, 39mm, self-winding, second-hand-less Royal Oak is an icon, and you don't mess with icons. You keep them exactly as they are, with the goal of making them just that much better. Which is exactly what AP has done with the 16202.Powered by the in-house Caliber L921.2, the Saxonia Automatic offers exceptional accuracy and a power reserve of up to 46 hours. It is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Paired with leather strap, the Saxonia Automatik is a prime example of refined craftsmanship and timeless German design.As easily wearable as it is fun-loving and vibrant, the Group C Cerakote is among my personal favorites across the entire Autodromo catalog. Yes, I really do like it that much. I am nothing if not a sucker for bright and poppy '80s neons and a retro digital display.
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