Tudor And The Marine Nationale Go Worldwide With The Pelagos FXD GMT 'Zulu Time'
The case is made of silver and gold, with Breitling Colt a hinged guilloché caseback. The hands are blued steel, Breguet style, and everything else about the watch, at least aesthetically, is true to the original Journe pocketwatch.This watch is an interesting choice for Bulgari, which is generally a brand associated with the Serpenti that I not-so-secretly am obsessed with love, and big and bold jewelry. But the company has recently ventured into making more technologically advanced timepieces, like the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, with its ultra-thin 1.95mm movement.This watch is currently the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in production (the thinnest ever was from Audemars Piguet in 1986).From the moment I saw this watch in the Vacheron booth at SIHH earlier this year, I've wanted to get my hands on it for a more in depth examination than a trade-show booth would allow. I was already familiar with the ins and outs of the cal. 2160 from my review of the Traditionelle Tourbillon last year, but this watch and that one are fundamentally different, their shared automatic tourbillon movement and the name Vacheron Constantin really being the only thing that connects them.The "Root Beer" is a classic GMT configuration dating back to the ref. 1675/3, but this is actually the first time that the GMT has been offered in rose gold, giving this reference historical significance.The Murph was designed and created especially for Interstellar in 2014. We have covered that story here on Hodinkee, speaking to prop master Ritchie Kremer, who helped design the original watch. At the time of the film's release, it was not a production model but a prop watch – and it remained out of production for five years.
The manufacture caliber MB M16.31 is finished in a classical Swiss manner, by hand, with an in-house balance spring. The MB M16.31 is based on an original 16 ligne Minerva caliber from the early 20th century that was designed for pocket watches. Naturally, that means Montblanc's split-seconds chronographs are on the larger size, generally coming in around 44mm × 14mm.Like many other watch brands, IWC released its first dive watch, the Aquatimer, during the 1960s, a diving was growing in popularity. This model was slightly different from other water-destined watches at the time, as the rotating bezel for the watch was actually internal and could only be operated IWC Portugieser using a second crown on the side of the case.We'll end this on a high note with a 1976 911 Turbo in "Dark Blue" that was bought new by its current owner and has done more than 1,300,000 KMs – or about 807,000 miles. I made sure to snap a few extra shots of this very special and well-loved Porsche.While he might be better known for his love for owning (and gifting) Rolex watches signed with Khanjars, the national emblem of Oman, the late Sultan of Oman Qaboos bin Said was an avid collector of a number of brands and emblazoned the Khanjars on a number of IWCs. However, reference 3510 was an apparent favorite, and he was pictured wearing the watch in official government photos.While we only have two days to wait for it, we'll certainly be wondering if we have a precious metal MoonSwatch on the horizon, or if it's simply a golden-hued Bioceramic watch. Will it look like the Speedmaster Apollo 11 Anniversary Limited Edition (famously modeled after the watch given to the Apollo astronauts), or more like the Moonshine models unveiled at Omega Days last year?
The estimate for this watch ranges between CHF 80,000 to 120,000, just above the $85,000 price tag of the regular reference. It is safe to assume that it will do much better, though where the bidding will stop on a watch like this is anyone's guess.Brand: Ulysse NardinModel: Diver Deep Dive “One More Wave” Limited EditionReference Number: 3203-500LE-3/BLACK-OMWDiameter: 46mmCase Material: Black DLC titanium satin-finished caseDial Color: Matte BlackIndexes: Greyed LumeLume: Yes, Grey-coloredWater Resistance: 1000mStrap/Bracelet: Rubber strapAnother interesting element about the creation story is the condensed production timeline: The watch was conceptualized, designed, rendered, and produced all within the timeframe of the pandemic. Again, this flies in Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars the face of industry norms where products and releases are planned years in advance. Here's how it came to market.Since 2012, he has acted as Heritage & Museum Director at Audemars Piguet, where he oversees the study, structuring, preservation, and communication of the brand's heritage. He is assisted in this mission by a diverse team, which includes restoration watchmakers, historians, and archivists.To Rich's point, I thought about something like an Aquanaut 5066 as my daily wear instead of the Black Bay 58, but for a similar price, I just like the Asymetrique more. And if his primary other criticism is that I "spent too much on Cartier," well, that's a reality I already live with every day.Unfortunately, right now, the new updated Caliber 938 only seems to come in Pink Gold, not steel, so the price feels a little steep. Compared to something like a Vacheron Traditionelle Self-Winding, however, it's less than one millimeter thicker, has 30 hours more power reserve, and costs $9,000 less, making it a pretty strong option. Hopefully I’ll get to handle one soon and see how it holds up in the metal.
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