Announcements: The HODINKEE Shop Is Now An Authorized SWATCH Retailer
Caliber: L082.1Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day/night indicator, perpetual calendar with goedkope jaeger-lecoultre horloge month, date, day of the week, leap year, and moon phase indicator, tourbillonDiameter: 34.1mmThickness: 7.8mmPower Reserve: 50 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)Jewels: 76, including one diamond endstone and six in screwed gold chatonsTotal Components: 624Additional Details: Tourbillon has a patented stop-seconds functionIt's fantastic to see the return of complicated watchmaking in the Autavia line. For many, the Autavia stands tall as one of the premier examples of a mid-century tool watch, built for the purpose of completing workaday tasks with skill and precision.But this is more than just an open-worked version of last year's Skyline. The base movement is the same, the three-hand automatic El Primero 3620, but one of the first things you'll notice is the placement of the 1/10th of a second sub-dial (driven directly off the watch's 5Hz escapement) has moved to six o'clock and the date has disappeared altogether. The crown, however, remains at the normal three o'clock position. The movement has a 60-hour power reserve.Calling out this win as I see a real change happening at Laurent Ferrier. I touched on it in a look at the brand's most recent release, the Classic Auto Sandstone in August, but, Laurent Ferrier is quietly making a "comeback." That's in quotes because it never really left. At WatchTime New York last month, the Classic Moon Silver was far and away the best watch I saw. I see it and the GPHG sees it.
Both watches are powered by the caliber BE-92A, which is an automatic movement made by ETA and modified by Bremont. The movement is visible in both models through a sapphire caseback. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and supplies up to 38 hours of power.The thing you'll notice first about these watches is that they don't look anything like the Spitfire models you've seen in the past. There's not a shiny silver dial or sunburst pattern to be found among the lot. Instead, there are two different color schemes at play, with dials, metals, and straps paired for maximum effect.Both rely on quartz resonators as the timing basis for the watch, but there the similarities end. The Spring Drive watch has a conventional mainspring and gear train, no battery or capacitor/accumulator, and at the end of the gear train, a glide wheel which acts as both a generator to produce the current necessary to operate the quartz timing package and power the integrated circuit, and as a braking element which controls how fast the falsi iwc orologi gear train turns.In a further attempt to clearly highlight any bias of taste, I don't care for the coloring of this iteration (black/green/gold) at all. Despite over a decade of covering watches, I have yet to develop even a sliver of fondness for gilt-effect coloring, and both the black and the blue versions of this watch are much more to my liking. If I were working with my own money, I'd go with the blue.The dial features a design combining the Seiko logo and torch at twelve o’clock, and “2 JEWELS” and “JAPAN” are printed at six. The medal portion depicts a marble statue of Townley Discobolus (likely from the British Museum) and reads “TOKYO 1964” on the front.Then there's the Cadenas on a strap, where the contrast of the gold and the leather creates a tougher look. It's cool in a 1985 Angelica Houston smoking a cigarette in a white tank top, jodhpurs, and black riding boots kind of way. The padlock and leather combination has an Hermes quality, and it has vintage appeal without being purely retro. Listen, not to sound trite, but the Cadenas is just chic.
The second of the three Twilights is Nautical Twilight, and as you might imagine from the name, it is of special relevance to mariners. Nautical Twilight begins at the exact moment that Civil Twilight/Dusk ends, when the geometric center of the Sun is 6º below the horizon.Like art and pop culture, watches can be an interesting lens through which to examine the era they came from. So I picked up the watch from the table, flipped it over, squinted, and said "hmm" after seeing another hallmark of a bygone era: On the caseback, there was an engraving with a few lines of text:Inversely, if you're looking for a simple and straightforward way of keeping an eye on a different timezone, say for coordinating with family or colleagues that live in a different part of the world, the 24-hour independent Caller GMT function is simple and generally less costly. And, as the naming suggests, you can independently adjust the 24-hour hand to any timezone or leave it on UTC time and use the bezel to adjust the display without ever touching the crown.A visit to its manufacturer helped me to understand just how important Jaeger-LeCoultre was in moving the industry forward during this "Golden Age" that it's celebrating. In fact, I consider it one billige panerai ure of the most important visits I have made on my journey in this field.For most watches, prices aren't going to rise this year like they did the last few years. With that, people won't feel the need to "chase trends" – there's time to slow down, take a breath, and consider what watches are actually interesting to you, not what's interesting to me or Kevin Hart or that guy at the meetup you kind of want to make jealous but don't want to admit it.Caliber: ETA 2000.M1 modified by Schwarz-Etienne for MINGFunctions: Hours, minutes, pulse seconds running indicatorPower Reserve: 36hWinding: Automatic or manualAdditional Details: Unique buttressed case construction integral "dial"/movement holder
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https://tinyurl.com/k4uc4pj8
https://www.abitur-und-studium.de/Blogs/C-Cybill/Introducing-The-Bremont-Supermarine-Waterman
https://www.abitur-und-studium.de/Blogs/Y-Ester/Business-News-We-ve-Hired-A-Great-New-CEO-Here-s-Why-And-What-s-Next
