An In-Depth Look At Vacheron Constantin's New Historiques 222 In Steel
Let your mind take you back to the 1970s and the design elements that we today most associate with that period. Cushion cases, of course. Fumé dials, yes. And large, boxy applied markers were also of the time, and these elements have a way of evoking the period quite vividly.As we've seen in replika Longines earlier versions of the watch, the two Moon disks are labeled Nord and Sud (north and south) as each represents the Moon as seen from the northern and southern hemispheres. The Sud disk, rather counterintuitively, is up top (north conventionally is at the top of most maps), but the reason for this is that to an observer in the southern hemisphere, it is the leftmost side of the Moon which falls into shadow first after a full Moon, and vice versa in the northern hemisphere.Quick Take: That's right – Hermès ended up with both the Men's and Women's Complication prizes at tonight's show. Don't get me wrong, this is a fantastic watch (as I mentioned above), but I would honestly have preferred to see the jury spread the love around a bit and showcase more than one model family.While adding a triple calendar moon phase complication isn't the most obvious choice to add to a dive watch, here, Blancpain proves that it can be done – and can be done impressively well, without sacrificing any of the legibility needed in a tool-oriented watch.
An earlier version of this story incorrectly described the dial of the steel model as urushi lacquer; the steel model in fact has a non-lacquer dial with a pattern similar to that of the lacquer models, which Grand Seiko says, was inspired by " ... Mt. Iwate, the mountain that dominates the skyline above the Shizukuishi Watch Studio."Caliber: Vacheron Constantin 1142Functions: Time; chronograph with 30 minute registerDiameter: 27.50mmThickness: Gucci G-Timeless 5.57mmPower Reserve: 48 hoursWinding: ManualFrequency: 21,600 vphJewels: 21Additional Details: Horizontal clutch, column wheel controlled; hand-finished with flanks polished and edges beveled on plates and bridges; decorated with circular graining on the dial side and Côtes de Genève on the back; Geneva SealIn this segment, there are two models that lYou’re looking at the Submariner in one of its most celebrated forms, the Ref. 5513. Over the reference's nearly three-decade lifetime, the watch-buying public was treated to a variety of exciting iterations, but few as aesthetically compelling as those featuring gilt dials, dating back to the early days. Risking the chance of coming across as a total loon, I'd argue that such variants afford a figurative warmth that their matte dial descendants just can't compete with.I've known Johnson for years, and he's constantly teaching me about watches I'd never heard of. He's the kind of collector who might discover a neat watch on eBay by accident, buy it, then gather enough knowledge to write a book on it. He's a fixture in the Classic Watch Club, a motley crew of collectors obsessed with vintage watches, as well as local Northern New Jersey collecting groups.If you do leave the house wearing something recognizable, then how about a vintage Cartier London Tank, complete with London hallmarks (which can be found on the side of the case, on the inside caseback, as well as on the original deployant clasp)? This one is Alex Steven's personal prized possession that he keeps stored in the vault. I'm afraid it's not for sale. Cry.From a tech and materials standpoint, I dig it. I love the dive-GMT layout, the grey coloring, and the use of a material that is more exciting than steel. I remember being at Baselworld (pour one out) when the original version of this watch was launched. It was big then, and that was years ago.
Presented in a 40mm brushed stainless steel case, it was made in honor of the Icelandic Coast Guard and their role in the unarmed "Cod Wars" against British fishing vessels which took place from 1948 to 1975. "The only war Iceland has actually waged against a foreign power, and it ended in no casualties and a full Icelandic victory," notes Gilbert.1:00Talking Watches With William Massena2:45 The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers6:20 Timezone24:00Walt Odets25:30Odets' Rolex Explorer Review30:00 HODINKEE Radio With Joe Thompson36:20 The Man Who Loved Women41:00 Rolex Oyster Perpetual53:00 Massena Lab1:04:00 Le Coucou1:06:00 The Sweet Science1:07:00 Rolling Stone's 500 Greatest Songs1:07:30 Rolling Stone's 500 Greatest Songs playlistLikewise, the dial glows a bright but not flashy silver that Monta calls "opaline silver". Also available in "charcoal" or "Monta blue" (both with red accents), the Atlas's dial shines with applied numerals, decent lume, and a general feeling of Rolex GMT-Master II cohesive quality. The date window is nicely balanced at six and features a framed aperture and a legible black-on-white format.Mr. Porsche never regarded a watch as a piece of jewelry, a watch is a timepiece, Schwamkrug says. "It should show the time in an instant glance. That's why he wanted to create the maximum contrast – the black and white."The Moonshine Gold models are where the brand has taken the more playful route. Set against an off-white Grand Feu dial, one model has opted for boldness with bright red Roman numerals that are paired with a matching double-wrap red leather strap. The other model has a champagne-hued gold dial whose textured surface is intended to mimic silk along with golden-hued numerals, creating a color palette that is monochromatic but still luxurious.
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