Hands-On With The New Gambier Strap Collection
Last year we were introduced to the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, which at the time was goedkope replica horloges the world's thinnest minute-repeater in production. Well, now Bulgari has added a ladies' piece to the Finissimo Collection – the Bulgari Lady Finissimo. In fact, this is the first ultra-thin tourbillon produced for women by the brand (following on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon).With few exceptions, the perpetual calendar tends to have one of the more lively and complex displays in watchmaking. Typically showing the date, the day of the week, the month, the phase of the moon, and the leap year. All of this intricacy is a reflection of the complexity that takes shape under the dial.We were at opposite ends of the Palexpo, Geneva's cavernous convention center where the exhibition is held, finishing up separate meetings and executing our team's general "divide and conquer" strategy. Nick's text to me was simple: "Can you please go see Trilobe during the show? Damn, these watches are nice."Is the Code 11.59 Starwheel the future of AP beyond the Royal Oak? Of course not, nor does it claim to be. But if AP is to find such a future, it's not going to be in superheroes or soundboards. It'll be in the type of watchmaking that the Starwheel represents.I saved what is possibly the best for last for two reasons. One, it's not a watch, and we're a watch website. Two, this automaton clock from Parmigiani Fleurier is incredibly complex and hard to wrap my head around. But frankly, you don't need to understand the technical aspects to understand how beautifully crafted this piece is and how engaging the automaton function is as a storytelling device. It also consists of 1,000 components and took 5,800 working hours to build.His past work included a school watch with a central balance and double retrograde seconds display. Later he helped create the 'Hippologia' automaton with Parmigiani Fleurier. While working at Laurent Ferrier, Tixier learned the skillset to become a talented prototypist and later, while freelance, created an entirely hand-crafted three-axis tourbillon with minute repeater for a client (and while he wouldn't say who it was for, only one name comes to mind: Girard-Perregaux).
What is exactly the same between the two watches is the build quality. The SKX013 is water resistant to 200 meters, the screw-down crown at four o’clock has the hefty crown guards on either side, the crystal is Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex material, and the bezel has deep, even clicks. I threw this model on a NATO during the last weekends of summer and it held up without a single mark through trips to the beach and the park, exactly as you’d expect.Originally, Schanker says, "the plan was that the watch Bill gives to Rashida for her birthday is an old Rolex. Sofia asked for it to be an old Rolex. So I showed her pictures of old Rolexes because, well, that could mean a lot of things, 'old Rolex.' I wanted to make sure it fit with what she had in mind. I showed her pictures, and she said, 'You know what? I have a watch just nep chloe like this. I'm going to bring it in.' And that was the one we originally intended to use."I am fortunate enough to (still) own quite a few rather nice watches, amongst them some that many consider holy grails, including a Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Panda, a Rolex Killy, and some rare Cartiers, most of which have to stay in the bank safe these days. But the watch I want to talk about here is one that flies under the radar of most connoisseurs: The Ralph Lauren Automotive Flying Tourbillon.Functions: World time, stopwatch, timer, calendar, day display, alarmPower Reserve: 10 months on rechargeable battery, or 22 months with "power save" function switched on Frequency: 6-band time calibration signalsNo, my one comment, or rather my humble suggestion, would be to mix it up a little and go for something a little more geometric in terms of actual case shapes. I love the juxtaposition between gemstones and less dainty shapes. I would be so excited to see some of the Octo Finissimo DNA revamped with the playful and perfectly executed gem setting that is oh-so Bulgari.The Bubbleback's importance in combining Rolex's waterproof "Oyster" case and "Perpetual" automatic movements didn't go unnoticed by early wristwatch collectors. In the 1980s and '90s, the Rolex Bubbleback was the watch to have, the way a vintage Daytona was in 2017 or a steel Nautilus was in 2021.
Should you prefer something a tad more complicated, there's a Compax from Universal Genève of the least common variety, plus a Record chronograph in a uniquely constructed case. Rarity without breaking the bank? There's that, too, in the form of an exclusive Porsche watch.It's not every day that I get to ask Nick if I can buy a watch for review, replica omega uhren but I certainly had a better chance at scoring that sweet expense-account approval when the watch cost...just over $18.So what did I get for the price of a hot date at McDonalds? A bit of resin, a truly tiny keyboard, and a dream.This is a character watch no matter how you want to define the category. But the question lingers: Why does he wear this? Why not choose a more rugged timepiece fit for his continent-hopping adventures? While we don't find that answer in the movie, we do find it in the pages of Dan Brown's novels.Now, before you start getting upset that someone is daring to suggest watches are not just worn or purchased for the pure and chaste love of horology, let me explain: No, I am not going to say that every single watch at every single moment has a sex agenda.At $850, the price feels reasonable for what you get in comparison to the competition. The Khaki Field Mechanical ($595) seems to be the most natural comparison on specs, but the Antarctic feels different enough from the traditional field watch.But if we must indulge, let's try to keep it to around 100 bucks, shall we? A rose by any name or price is just as sweet, or so the Bard says. For that, I'd head to the Swatch Store, and no need to spend $400 or wait in line for some bioceramic imitator that might not even be in stock.
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