Introducing: The HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 5
This watch, a limited run of 1,967 automatic chronographs in goedkope audemars-piguet horloge the Clifton Club range, specifically recognizes Burt Munro, who set an AMA (American Motorcycle Association) national land-speed record at Bonneville in 1967 aboard his own heavily modified 1920s-era Indian Motorcycles Scout.Though Rénier sees the Reverso, of all the watches produced by JLC, as the most symbolically important, she stresses that it exists in the larger context of diversity in watchmaking at JLC – a diversity which in its breadth of expression rivals any other watchmaking firm, and which is especially represented by the enormous number of different movements the company has made since Antoine LeCoultre established his first small workshop in 1833.In the rest of this article are some picks of the litter from the HODINKEE Vintage Team. We have a complete-set Rolex "Red" Submariner with a "meters first" Mark II dial, a pair of Heuer Autavias (one super and one "Siffert"), and a Breitling Premier chrono from the '40s. Clicking through the slideshow above, you can find the rest of the selection making up the full drop. Spanning seven brands and plenty of price points and personalities, there's a ton to appreciate this week.And naturally, with all those players in the room, everyone comes with a watch ready to impress. The person in front of me was wearing a $400,000 Jaquet Droz automaton! I wasn't able to get nearly as many photos as I would have liked, so you'll just have to take my word for it.The Maxigraph is, at its core, a monopusher regatta chronograph. To entertain the brand's story a bit – the Maxigraph is what a brand would have designed as a nautical chronograph for the inaugural 1939 Bol d'Or du Léman.
Glashütte Original joined a rather exclusive club when it unveiled its very own self-winding chronograph movement, Caliber 37-01. The column-wheel chronograph made its debut in 2014 and, maybe because GO felt that a new movement deserved a special introduction, it was housed in some pretty special cases – the company offered the watch in platinum and in red gold. It left falsi vacheron-constantin orologi a great impression on us when we saw last saw it, and now it's available in steel.Available on the leather strap (as seen in the photos) or on Oris' easy-wearing rivet-style steel bracelet, the Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph starts at $4,000 and uses a Sellita-sourced Swiss automatic chronograph movement. As the latest entry to the Divers Sixty-Five line up (and the first series-produced chronograph) this new Chronograph is a handsome, nicely made, and a strong take on the format previously established by the Brashear LE.For the 100th anniversary of the Tank Cintrée, Cartier has introduced a new limited edition Cintrée which, while not an exact reproduction of any particular vintage model, captures very exactly all the elegance and charm of many classic vintage models. The precision with which the 100th Anniversary model captures the charm of the original design of 1921 is hard to overstate – the touchpoints amount to what, to the uninitiated, may seem like minor points, but together, they make magic.Looking at that introduction piece and James Stacey's early hands-on photos you can see that even in ceramic, the finishing AP has done makes the new Offshore case trend visually close to the original in a big way that leans into brand history and consumer nostalgia. Historically I've always thought ceramic was a material that looks better than it feels and I'd venture to say that's still the case here, but that's in part because the black ceramic just looks so incredibly good.Sapphire has to be diamond cut, and then these tools have to be changed after cutting 20 to 25 crystals, says Wesley Kwok, founder of Nodus Watches. Compare this to acrylic crystals, which can be quickly cut out of a plastic sheet like a Christmas cookie.These are almost modular watches, Gruenberg says. "You see so many things that have been switched out, it's kind of the intrinsic nature of Rolex and its design compared to Patek." He says it's often hard to know for certain whether a particular dial and case combination is correct or original – there are so many variations you're bound to find something new every once and a while.
The Ballade ups the ante though. It draws on Tissot's long history of making antimagnetic watches, something that stretches all the billige zenith ure way back to the 1930s, when the watchmaker began using non-magnetic materials in its movements. Tissot even claims that it's Antimagnétique was the world's first non-magnetic wristwatch – a claim that's tough to verify for sure, but it's certainly a contender.On the wrist, the watch wears like an SUV drives. It's present and feels tough. On my 7.25-inch wrist, the 44mm case size has a wrist presence that "sticks." You can feel the watch, and you're aware it's there almost all of the time. The rubber strap is comfortable and makes total sense in the same way rubberized weather tech floor mats make sense on an SUV. Nothing fancy, just straight utility. The buckle is titanium, which points to the high-tech nature of the watch.For the sake of argument, assuming you can slip past all that red tape, let's look at just what you get at the entry point to Patek. First things first, you're getting the name on the dial, which is a fantasy all its own. The 5167A is the newest and most modern iteration of the Aquanaut – a reimagining of the original late-90s design. Announced at BaselWorld 2007, it represents a new era for the model. Oh and for those wondering at home, the A is for Acier, which is French for steel.What are you excited about in 2022? While I can't divulge all of the details just yet, I will soon be able to share a collaboration project with an independent watch brand in which I was able to design the dial for an upcoming new model. The full announcement will come later in the year, but I can say that it's been a great experience and it's a brand that I truly admire.Photo credits: Lead – Bill Wadman. All others – Atom Moore.The dial has enormous depth and while not literally luminous (except for the lume-filled hands and hour markers), it does have an azure glow emphasized by the gleam of the hand-hammered Sun and Moon on the day/night display at 3:00. There is an aperture showing the city for which the hands show the time and a date display in a window at 12:00.Price: The model with a stainless steel bezel with black ceramic insert, on a strap, rings in at $2,050, while the version on a bracelet is $2,090. The other model, with a bronze bezel with hunter green insert, is priced at $2,150 on a strap and $2,190 on a bracelet. Availability: From October 2022Limited Edition: No, standard production.For more, click here.
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