How '80s Hip-Hop Took Watch Culture To A Whole New Level
At the age of 20, F.P. Journe began work on his very first watch. This sounds like a logical next step to a young horologist today, but one must remember that the idea of watchmaking in the late 70s would be akin to learning the craft of DVD production in 2016. Mechanical watches were dying, and, at best, those who attended watchmaking schools were taught watch repair, not watchmaking.The pre-sale estimate of this lot was a paltry CHF 100,000 - 200,000, but as you can see, the bidding blew right past that figure to arrive at CHF 1,428,500. This was expected, though, as many people observing the sale speculated that the Omega Museum itself, wanting to own an important part of Omega – and watchmaking – history, would figure among the contenders for this lot. The previous record holder was a platinum Omega Constellation that sold at Antiquorum in 2007 for CHF 413,700.Caliber: Longines orologi replica iwc L888.2 (ETA A31.L01, base 2892)Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, dateDiameter: 25.94mm (11.5 lignes)Power Reserve: 64 hoursWinding: Automatic and manualFrequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)Jewels: 21Robin got into watches in his childhood via his father. Being from Frankfurt, Germany, he says his only choice for his first mechanical watch was a Sinn, which he saved for and gifted himself when he earned his bachelor's degree. He loves the 104's versatility and simple tool-watch aesthetic – and he's proud to have a watch from his hometown.There are three variants within this collection, a black dial with a black bezel (SSK001), a blue dial with a bicolor blue and black bezel (SSK003), and an orange dial with a black bezel (SSK005). The first two variations come equipped with a high contrast red GMT hand while the orange dial has a black GMT hand. Each has a magnified date window at three o'clock.Concurrent with the British Royal Navy tests, Rolex also contracted the assistance of Dimitri Rebikoff, a pioneer in underwater photography and the burgeoning sport of scuba diving. Rebikoff's influence on the Submariner project was so great that internally, the watch was referred to as "pièce Rebikoff." Ultimately, in a Rolex technical meeting on May 28th, 1953, Jean Huguenin is credited with deciding that "this piece will carry the name: 'SUBMARINER.'"
As we mentioned in our previous article here, this Seamaster 300 is one step beyond the Spectre Limited edition, as it is actually one of the eight prototypes that Daniel Craig wore during the filming of Spectre, from the Austrian Alps to the Moroccan desert. Even better, this Omega is the prototype Number 1; all these explains the frenzy around this lot, which eventually reached $132,000. The Longines Heritage from M did very well too, reaching close to $30,000.The watch is again powered by Calibre 17, an automatic chronograph movement with date that beats at 4 Hz (28,800 vph) for around 42 hours. The watch comes on a full-grain perforated calfskin strap, with a black titanium clasp.We'll start with something big. In fact, this is the watch on the catalog's cover. On its own, a ref. 130 chronograph in yellow gold with Breguet numerals would be a plenty desirable watch. It's a slim, snap-back chronograph from the 1940s (this one dates replica audemars-piguet horloges to 1947, to be precise) that represents the heyday of the Geneva manufacture. But, this one comes with some extra provenance.As a continued fan of the original S302, I love the new colors (especially the full grey of the Ocean LE and the way the orange GMT hand looks on the Jet). But, at the same time, I have and will continue to have a specific fondness for the dive-GMT layout. I am a diver, and I like to take my watches diving and one of my favorite elements of the original S302 was its dive-GMT format.
The Sélène starts with a 33mm stainless steel case, with or without diamonds, and with or without a bracelet. There are two dial styles too, silver and navy blue. The watch we have here has the blue dial, has diamonds on the bezel, and is worn on a navy blue strap. The modest case has an unusual shape with downturned, semi-tear-drop lugs applied to the side of the case.Must be a Type XX, I tell myself. He’s got an army of beautiful examples. Or maybe a gold calendar wristwatch from the middle of the century. Those are my favorite. No. What he brings back is a nep canada goose very strange tonneau-shaped stainless steel Breguet with a very simple black dial, baton hands and baton indexes. It screams 1970s. It doesn't scream "Breguet."This variant of the GA-2100 flies under the radar with a stealthed-out aesthetic featuring greyed hands against a dial that looks like it was 3D printed. The indices have enough dimensionality that it isn't too difficult to tell the time, but if a decision was made to go with the ana-digi design, then it's surprising to forego things that would make it easier to tell the time. But don’t worry, this is a G-Shock after all, and you can still display the time on the digital screen.I haven't had a chance to see or handle one of these in person (and given how low production is apt to be, I am not likely to), but the case is in platinum, and dimensions are 46mm x 16.80mm including the very highly domed box crystal. I am sure it will make its presence known on the wrist with all the joyful assertiveness of an Academy Awards winner on Oscar night, showing up at the Vanity Fair after party.Watches and motorsports have long shared a history and fan base. With its racy Fastrider chronograph, Tudor skipped the world of four-wheeled machines to work with the famed Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The resulting watch was a tech-forward expression of Tudor's ever-sporty intent crossed with the brash and exciting spirit of Ducati.
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