After A Decade Working For Big Names, Simon Brette Steps Out On His Own
Brand: Laurent FerrierModel: Bridge OneReference Number: LCF 032.AC.AG1, LCF.032.AC.E01 Dimensions: 30mm x 44mmThickness: 14.58mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: White grand feu enamel or grained slate greyIndexes: Roman Réplicas Richard Mille rm 016 numerals and batons (enameled Roman numerals on enamel dial, applied Roman numerals on grained dial)Lume: NoneWater Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: Honey alligator leather or honey timberland leather strap with pin buckle or folding claspThe newly unveiled Omega Seamaster Diver 300M "Beijing 2022" Special Edition takes a familiar model and packs it with colorful flourishes. At its most basic level, this is a Diver 300M in form factor, size, bracelet, and general dial format, just tweaked in a very Olympics-y sort of way.Atmospheric diving suits also take advantage of this technology. These self-contained hard suits often use oil-filled joint assemblies because the oil doesn't compress at depth and allows the joint to articulate, not to mention staying properly lubricated. To learn more about the JIM suit, perhaps the most famous atmospheric diving suit, have a look at Justin Couture's Watch Spotting story from yesterday. In it we hear from Cliff Newell, who was trained as a JIM suit operator.However, despite the rapidly expanding markets in both North America and Europe, Asia remains the dominant collective region for Swiss watches, holding exactly 49 percent of the value of all Swiss exports this year, to date. Out of Switzerland's top 15 current markets for exports, only two (Hong Kong and China) registered negative growth. Eleven of those 15 achieved double-digit percentile growth.
Back in January, we saw Cartier re-release its iconic (and I really mean that) Panthère de Cartier. This is a watch that was first released during the Must de Cartier days when it was marketed to a glamorous 1980s clientele, and it's been a classic every since. When I saw this new version, I recognized the watch immediately and I knew I had to get one on to my wrist for a review as quickly as possible.As watch enthusiasts, we often get wrapped up in brand importance, movement provenance, refined aesthetics, and credibility among our peers. But sometimes you get tired of always suiting up in your perfectly patina’d “dot over ninety” vintage Speedmaster, and just want to strap on a giant colorful watch on a thick rubber strap and pretend you’re hunting for stolen nukes underwater in the Caribbean. And for those fausses Richard Mille rm 67 times, this might just be the perfect watch.Noiret, we learn, has spent his life with his nose down, loupe to eye – “the magnifying glass, the small tools, the coils. It was like a puzzle” – assuming order from all the rational bits around him, only to find out it’s made him blind to the nature of his own son, Bernard.Universal Geneve has been making news over the past month ever since it was announced that Breitling was effectively behind a new revival of the brand. UG is about as historically significant as they come in the vintage watch world from the Polerouter to the Compax and all manner of chronograph options in between. The brand represents arguably the best of mid-century watch design and it even had a young Genta behind some of its most iconic pieces (ahem, Polerouter once again).
Movado offers outstanding vintage watches, especially if you don't mind them on the smaller side. With its 34mm diameter, the reference 14776 is typical of Movado's vintage production, with an in-house movement allowing for an extremely legible triple date complication. The caliber 475 belongs to the 470 family, which also feature chronograph and moon phase complications, respectively for the Calendograph and the Celestograph.Those British companies creating watches in any volume remain heavily reliant on Switzerland, Germany, and, more than anywhere else, China – by production volume, 98 percent of all components and packaging in British watches are sourced from China, found the report. Still, high-street brands such as Sekonda and Accurist skew the numbers.The caseback is also personalized to commemorate Collins' involvement with Gemini 10 and Apollo 11, and the watch comes on its original gold bracelet. All told, the lot, with 14 days left to bid, is currently at $105,000 (at the time of posting). Seeing as special Speedmasters have been routinely setting new auction records in recent years, we have no idea just how high this will go, but it's definitely one very precious example that Réplicas Richard Mille rm 35 marks the moment when the Speedmaster became the Moonwatch.I find this interesting because many folks reading this story won't be able to purchase these watches purely by virtue of the fact that they don't live in or near London, Milan, Tokyo, or Zurich. I know I don't. Does this hyper-limited part of the release mean that we will see crowds equal to last year's madness in those select cities? That remains to be seen (and we'll be here to let you know if it happens).Unfortunately, right now, the new updated Caliber 938 only seems to come in Pink Gold, not steel, so the price feels a little steep. Compared to something like a Vacheron Traditionelle Self-Winding, however, it's less than one millimeter thicker, has 30 hours more power reserve, and costs $9,000 less, making it a pretty strong option. Hopefully I’ll get to handle one soon and see how it holds up in the metal.No Ressence is competing in any contest for "thinnest watch," but the oil-filled display never gets old and still impresses me with legibility. Same could be said for the unusual winding and setting design – it's not what you're used to, but it certainly is a creative way to approach the functional challenges of such an unusual watch while utilizing a really sleek design language.
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