The 4:30 Date Window Might Actually Be The Best Date Window
Last week, almost 10 years since my last game of tennis, I was back on the court, wearing the wrong sports shoes, holding someone else's racket (amazed by how light they have become), but my watch was still tucked away safely. Instead, this is what I wore:Continuing to iterate within the Minerva-inspired 1858 line up, Montblanc has recently unveiled a new monopusher automatic chronograph that is available in both steel and a bronze limited edition. With warm new-vintage styling and an entirely enthusiast-spec complication, the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph is a nicely sized and sporty design that offers a cool complication at a less-than-common price point.This latest expression of Tudor's dive-adjacent chronograph was immediately on my mental version of this list, but, as it turns out, the new panda Tudors are only smaller if you pick the correct comparison. As Jon highlighted in his hands-on with fake hublot watches the new Tudor chronographs, these new models – which are 41mm wide, 14.4mm thick, and 49.8mm lug to lug – are the same size as 2019's Black Bay Chronograph Steel & Gold.If you can handle the size, it's hard to beat the IWC Automatic Spitfire. The watch's sub-$5,000 price point means it's relatively attainable if you can be patient saving your dough. It's a watch made with real integrity, and one that will impress just about anybody, whether they're luxury snobs or salt-of-the-earth. Outside of Tudor and Omega, you won't find many in-house tool watches that bring this much value and quality to the table.In August 2023, A Swiss federal court ruling ricocheted across the watch world (which we also covered), bringing to light the long, complicated story of Lennon's 2499. From there, Jay picked up the story, talking to the watch specialist at Auctionata, the auction house that had taken in the watch in 2013, the dealer who acquired it from there, and even speaking with Sean Lennon, John's son.
We saw a lot of watches last week – A LOT of watches. So after a much needed weekend off from writing and taking pictures, we have pulled together a list of our favorite watches from six different categories: Best Value, Most Unexpected Watch, Best Everyday Watch, Dream Watch, Guilty Pleasure Watch, and Most WTF Watch. Some are more surprising that others but all in all this is a comprehensive list of our favorites from SIHH 2016.Read the full story here.In terms of context, where the Fifty-Eight gave the Black Bay line an even wider appeal, the FXD is definitely a more niche expression of Tudor’s do-it-all diver. It’s not as niche as, say, the replica bell-ross orologi P01, but it’s also decidedly not the Pelagos Fifty-Eight (or GMT) that some have been wishing for.Ultimately, the back of a watch is the portion that sits hidden. It's a secret between you and your wrist. An exhibition caseback should excite you – it should compel you to take that watch off your wrist, break that secret, and share it with the world.As mentioned in the episode, HODINKEE Radio will be moving to an every-other-week publishing schedule for the foreseeable future. Thank you so much for listening and if we missed your favorite release from the past few weeks, do let us know in the comments.
Caliber: Caliber 100.8Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 24-hour GMTDiameter: 36.4 mmThickness: 5.55 mmPower Reserve: 42 hoursWinding: Manual winding Frequency: 3 Hz (18,000 vph)Jewels: 26 jewels (three of which are in Replica montblanc watches screwed gold chatons)My room was large with velvet shades to pull around the bed. The casement windows opened wide. I haven’t been able to open a hotel window more than three inches in years, and I wondered what it was about the Genevoise character that would trust their guests not to hurl a lamp, or themselves, out of it and onto the glass rooftop below.Reference Points: Understanding The Entire Lineage Of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar ChronographsA big meaty Ben deep dive is always a good place to start and if you're curious about the history and development of Patek Philippe's perpetual calendars (hint: you should be) this Reference Points will get you up-to-speed in no time.Maybe it's the name, or the urban legend of its origin, or both, but the Crash can seem at first like a fairly wacky design. After all, the idea of "crashing" a Cartier watch would seem to imply a distortion that's both radical and random, relative to other Cartier designs. In fact, the design is extremely refined and every detail has been thoroughly thought out, so that the final effect, while certainly unusual, has all the classicism and dignity of any Tank Louis Cartier.Earlier this year, Doxa released a ceramic model that tipped its proverbial hat to the black "oil dipped" finish of the original Army. That was a limited run of 100 pieces for Watches of Switzerland, and it sold out soon after it was aThe yellow gold version of the OFA is an extremely limited American-only LE of 50 pieces to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the first Bulgari boutique in the States. So many anniversaries! It shares the same thinness as the rose gold (2.23mm), 40mm case size, and notably brown lacquered dial. Both variations have a transparent caseback so you can watch that new escapemeThe yellow gold version of the OFA is an extremely limited American-only LE of 50 pieces to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the first Bulgari boutique in the States. So many anniversaries! It shares the same thinness as the rose gold (2.23mm), 40mm case size, and notably brown lacquered dial. Both variations have a transparent caseback so you can watch that new escapement structure do its thing.Right now, Cools says that the most difficult part of being a watchmaker is that he has to concentrate not only on his work at the bench, but also on the commercial, marketing, and administrative aspects of his young business. Today, Cools handles everything – from answering the emails of a pesky HODINKEE editor to anglage and polishing.
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