IWC Aquatimer Expedition Charles Darwin überzeugt mit stilvollem Design und Funktionalität
Still, these are well-designed and fairly-priced watches. The most popular watch in the collection, the Sif N.A.R.T. 1948, is powered by a Soprod M100 Date automatic movement, features an Incabloc shock protection system, and is adjusted to five positions. The watch is water resistant to a depth of 1,000 meters.With a banner role in one of the most notable post-war exploration achievements, Rolex had the positioning they needed to establish their dressy but tough-as-nails Explorer as the quintessential sport watch of its era.Once you get past the size, there's truly a lot to like about the design. For one thing, Hamilton did away with the engraved "Titanium" branding on the side of the case. That was a sticking point for a lot of enthusiasts who felt the design choice to be a bit too over-explainy. This new cleaner case is Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars unmistakably titanium. The dark hue is the first giveaway, and the light weight is the second.Well, there is a rabbit on this watch – but it's on the sapphire caseback, where it will not embarrass the wearer, who is surely a real tough customer and not a big rabbit person. The rabbit is sort of discreet except that it is painted in red (for good luck, presumably). Looming behind the poor creature is the Caliber Heuer 2 movement with its 80-hour power reserve, which the brand says is "intended to support any thrilling lifestyle."
While I typically prefer my watches in steel, I have a specific soft spot for precious metal Royal Oaks. It's something about the way that the extra weight is balanced by that integrated bracelet and the fact that the watch was originally designed to be in steel, IWC Aquatimer so the gold is just for yucks, you know?In this part of the world, I learned, a watch had deep diplomatic significance. In diplomacy and business, senior government officials provided Swiss watches as gifts to recognize and honor a personal relationship and demonstrate Arab hospitality. As a personal touch, many Middle Eastern governments, particularly Gulf states, would include the royal or military crest on the dial of the watch.In general, the dial layouts, for both color iterations, are well devised. I really like the crosshairs in the running seconds subdial, and the use of what appear to be radial pattern sub-registers that bring another element of texture to the dial. Contrast is king here and everything is working towards the end result of producing a very legible watch, functional in the modern context but instantly recognizable as something with a vintage bent.The watch is hefty, certainly, especially on the steel bracelet, and at 42.5mm wide by 13.7mm thick, the Overseas chronograph is wider than the largest Audemars Piguet Royal Oak chronograph by a millimeter and a half and thicker by 1.2mm as well. The Nautilus chronograph is even smaller, by 2mm in width and 1.5mm in thickness. But measurements never tell the whole story.Equally surprising – and eerily similar in some respects – is the fact that Baltic also produced a perpetual calendar. Even more impressive is its novel – a 100% newly developed perpetual calendar run by the ultra-thin Vaucher 5401 micro-rotor movement.
In one of the stranger turns in recent GPHG memory, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele will be returning as the special juror, having won the Aiguille d'Or (the top prize) two years in a row. How is this possible, you might ask? Isn't the special juror's brand supposed to be ineligible? Well, Mr. Scheufele won in 2016 for Ferdinand Berthoud and then in 2017 for Chopard, hence his return. It's weird, but just a natural result of the voting.Moneyball (starring Brad Pitt, Jonah Hill, Robin Wright, and Phillip Seymour Hoffman) is directed by Bennett Miller, with props by Maureen Farley (with an assist by Jeff Stein), and script by Steven Zaillian and Aaron Sorkin, based on the book by Michael Lewis. It's available to rent on iTunes or Amazon.The true excitement of the '90s was around the rebirth of traditional watchmaking – both in the birth of independents and in larger houses re-focusing on traditional watchmaking and complications. It was Ikepod and ultra-thin perpetual calendars and Daniel Roth, not just Seamaster 300s and Subs (though those are great too).Urban Jürgensen was one of the best-trained watchmakers in the world by the time he returned to Copenhagen in 1801 – and he backed it up. Before his death in 1830, he produced over replika Rolex 700 watches, including 45 marine chronometers.The earliest Heuer 2447N set the stage for the Carrera. As we'll see, Heuer would go on to produce variations of the Carrera, but many of the most recognizable elements – tension ring, angled lugs, black or silver dial – would carry through the manual-wind Carreras.For those of you who might be unable to be here in our library in person, we also wrote 11 articles about the collection this year! We covered topics ranging from mystery novels to Olympic timing to the ever-popular erotic watches, and more!
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