Montblanc Star Legacy Automatic Chronograph fasziniert mit Eleganz und Präzision
One of the most complicated automatons to come to market, this snuff box, featuring a scene of villagers putting out a fire, is possibly a unique piece. It is attributed to Piguet & Capt., Geneva, and is from around 1798-1809. It has 12, yes 12, motions – starting with the woman on the right pumping the water, which is made of engraved glass, and ending with the six people rotating within the burning building. To see the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak piece in action see the video above.Looping back around to the blue dial, we see a lovely rich and glossy blue that has been hand-rendered by Patek Philippe in Grand Feu enamel (hence the "Email" on the dial, which is French for enamel). For effect, the Breguet numerals and hands are all white gold and, while it's hard to say which version of the 5370P is more beautiful, I think it is safe to say that the blue certainly offers an entirely different presence that rather suits the traditional styling of the model.Our watches don’t always conform to the typical categories … we're a pop culture-infused horological smorgasbord, a representative for the brand told me. "Which, I think, perfectly sums up why we decided to tackle this movie collaboration."The dive watches have matching phantom ladder hand sets, the reverse lollipop second hand with double domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and a screwed-in caseback to give 300m of water resistance that match the rust-resistant titanium case.While Chastaingt insists that "technicality is at the service of creation" the watch still maintains mechanical integrity courtesy of Chanel's Calibre 3.1. An in-house manual-winding movement with the timer bridge, the plate and the gear-train bridge especially produced in crystal sapphire. The watch has a 55-hour power reserve and 30 meters of water resistance.The 18k rose gold case measures 42.5mm by 14.4mm. Invariably, split-seconds chronographs are thicker and this is no exception. But with the somewhat truncated lugs, it will probably fit on a wider variety of wrists, allowing the strap to fall more sharply down. Just like the Toric Petite Seconde, the Rattrapante features a sand-gold, hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather strap, with the Italian sartorial flair of "punto a mano" stitching.
Normally, such good news Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra would mean that Swiss watch firms would be popping champagne corks at Baselworld. That was certainly the case at the SIHH show in January. But SIHH only offers a view of the very top of the luxury segment of the Swiss watch world. (The HH in SIHH stands for haute horlogèrie, after all.)Rainbows are everywhere in watchmaking these days, and the modern lineage begins with Rolex. We would argue that it also ends with Rolex. One thing's for sure: The Rainbow Daytona sets the benchmark for gem-setting in watchmaking. The quality of craftsmanship and calibration, the gradient of hand-selected sapphires, it's all so good…and so Rolex.Few watches have been so uncompromising in realizing the vision of their creator. For Berneron, it started with a simple idea: A movement can achieve more efficient technical performance if you're willing to abandon the traditional round case shape. This starts by allowing for a larger barrel, making for a more effective use of space.It's not exactly a tool watch in the traditional sense, but it certainly feels something like a tool for the modern world. It's dressy, it's casual, and with 100 meters of water resistance, should be ready for any splashes you might reasonably encounter on a day-to-day basis. It's a bit chunky depending on your wrist size (dimensions: 41mm diameter, 12.5mm thick, 49mm lug-to-lug), but the lugs curve downward to meet most wrists nicely.
Because the case of the Basculante can make a full 360 degree rotation, it can stand fully upright, even when Piaget Polo the watch is rested on a flat surface. Which comes in very handy when the owner wants to carry a timekeeper without the hassle of wearing one. In that case, he or she can transform the Basculante into a nifty table clock.Importantly, all of these upgrades come while the case sizes have stayed the same. The only change is that the back sapphire crystal is .25mm thicker, which Apple notes is the thickness of two sheets of paper. Battery life is still approximately 18 hours, depending on usage, so no change there either.Wilsdorf died in 1960, a few years after the Day-Date was introduced. It feels perfectly fitting that one of the final releases under Wilsdorf's eye would remain the company's crowning achievement, ever since. Rolex has continued to introduce new watch collections in the 60 years since Wilsdorf passed away, but the Day-Date remains an authentic part of a select group of watches that were created under the guidance of the man himself and have become genuine icons the world over.The Chopard L.U.C Strike One: case, ethical 18k rose gold, 40mm x 9.86mm, vertical satin brushed caseband, sapphire front and back. Movement, L.U.C 96.32-L, 33mm x 5.60mm, running at 28,800 vph in 33 jewels; 65-hour power reserve; twin barrels; balance spring with Phillips terminal curve; Chopard patented monobloc sapphire crystal and gong; COSC-certfied chronometer. Numbered 25-piece limited edition. Price on request.It's the kind of combination of materials science and design acumen that Audemars Piguet is known for, even if it does draw from history. The entire case, save for the facI am a big lover of Audemars Piguet for a lot of reasons – its history, its experience with complications, the fact that (regardless of how hard it might be to get an AP at retail) the brand feels a little more culturally accessible than the walledThe shape of the crystal follows the facet of the case. The hard lines intersect thoughtfully, and if you look at the lugs, you can imagine a world in where that half millimeter of width on each side could have been thrown out to make the lug width just one millimeter wider and the lugs easier to shape. But AP has accentuated the design by leaving that little hanging edge next to the strap.The movement chosen for this redesigned Benthos is now the everyday-solid Sellita SW200-1, which keeps decent time for the price and is now a well-proven ETA alternative. But at the end of the day, it is all about the smile-inducing inspiration that a bulletproof dive watch can bring to mundane everyday life.
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