The HODINKEE Pop-Up At UTA Artist Space In Los Angeles
More recently, Biver became the CEO of TAG Heuer and he continues to lend his expertise, experience, and personality to the watch world at large. Finally, not only does Biver have a keenly passionate mind for watches (and cheesemaking), but he also celebrated his 70th birthday this past Tag Heuer Link Friday, so be sure to offer him an HBD in the comments. Click here to read (and watch!) Talking Watches: With Jean-Claude BiverWhile there have been a great many bracelets that have come supplZenith was, like many brands at the time, growing. It had been acquired by LVMH in 1999, and in 2001 new leadership was installed in the form of CEO Thierry Nataf. The Nataf era at Zenith lasted until 2009 and – to put it nicely – it isn't a period generally looked at favorably these days. The simplest way to describe it would be as a period of excess, and so I'll leave it at that.Historically, however, that low number hasn't resulted in any increased desire for vintage 222 watches. Just take a look over in the HODINKEE Shop for proof – we sold a full-set, two-tone 222 from 1981 less than three years ago for $19,000. That's below the low estimate that Phillips, an auction house notorious for lowballing its estimates, has set for the two-tone 222 going under the hammer tomorrow.Brand: H. Moser & Cie.Model: Endeavour Tourbillon Concept VantablackReference Number: 1804-0403Diameter: 40mThickness: 10.7mCase Material: 5N red goldDial Color: VantablackWater Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: Hand-stiched matte alligator leather; 18-carat 5N red gold folding claspFor the rest of my life, I will feel lesser than when I open my watch box as I know there is someone out there doing the same task by simply pushing a button and letting the wonderful world of L'Epée do the rest.
If you're collecting, you tend (of course) to focus on whatever it is that is in the bullseye for your tastes, tendencies, and budget, but it's interesting to step back a little and see just how diverse offerings – even at roughly the same estimate – can be. Here are four coming up tomorrow from Christie's New York's Rare Watches (including Nautilus 40 Part IV) auction – all in similar price ranges, but appealing to very different tastes.A quick Google led me to Leonard Fullenkamp, a retired soldier who had served as a professor at the Army War College in Carlisle in addition to holding command positions Breitling Superocean Heritage with the famed 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions, the 2nd Ranger Battalion, the 42nd Field Artillery Brigade, and the 25th Division. He had dedicated his life to serving our nation; I had a hunch that he would understand how important it was to get this watch back to someone who also found it meaningful.Caliber: Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 956 (Memovox), Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 899 (Date)Functions: Hours/minutes/seconds, date, unidirectional rotating inner bezel, alarm (Memovox only)Power Reserve: 45 hours (Memovox), 70 hours (Date)Winding: AutomaticFrequency: 4 HzJewels: 23 (Memovox), 32 (Date)Chronometer Certified: NoMy love for gold comes from a different sort of place, though. I honestly associate it with – and there's a negative connotation to this that I don't condone – the lifestyle of pimps and players and gangster culture of Texas, where I'm from. I just think it's a great aesthetic. Gold works for me – gold rings, gold chains. I recently got a gold grill. It's a cool juxtaposition to my fashion.Combined with the thick and robust nature of the Isofrane rubber, the watch has a summery vibe that is similar to the Military and one that I rather like. It's bright and fun - the sort of watch that will make you smile as the time pushes past five o'clock on the eve of a July long weekend.While it's probably cliché, when I arrived at the Only Watch preview, I made a beeline to the Tudor. This may actually be the first "Big Block" chronograph I've ever truly liked. No doubt that's in part because it draws a lot of inspiration from one of my favorites, the gold Rolex ref. 6263 Daytona. It turns that out all I needed was a lot of gold to sell me on the idea.
Striking as the "dark" version is, though, I think I prefer the colored model. Thinking about time is, after all, thinking about death, at least if you're a mortal, and the cool thing about Krüger's work, I think, is that she's suggesting – in both watches, and in this new clock – that the dance, for all that it ends, actually would not be very much fun if it didn't.Visit Fiona Kruger online right here; for a look at her watchmaking, check out our coverage of the Celebration Skull Black.What sets the four models apart are the colors and numerals. There are two dials with plain stick markers at the hours (black and tan) and two with Arabic numerals (combination black/brown and black/blue). Something about the sticks feels very serious, while the choice of Arabic numerals has a sort of playful tone, especially with the addition of the lighter colors and straps. Each watch comes on a calfskin strap that matches the accent colors of the dial.According to collectors and accounts from Porsche Design and IWC, that innovative bracelet design was Breitling Professional fragile and could even release unexpectedly. Whether it was due to users wearing out the button by fidgeting with it or the softness of the aluminum case, the bracelet was a proven point of failure. They can also be somewhat uncomfortable.ID Genève's most recent release is the "Circular S," a collection of six dial variants housed in a 100% recycled steel case and refurbished Swiss-made ETA 2824 automatic movements sourced from unsold stock. More than just workhorse movements that were available as unsold stock, ID Genève chose the ETA 2824 because it's one of the most easily repairable movements worldwide, which they hope will reduce the waste of these watches one day being cast aside if they stop working.While the price of the standard El Primero chronograph ($10,000 on bracelet) faces stiff competition, it's tough to think of a direct competitor once you slap a triple calendar and moonphase in it. The most direct comp is the Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42, a nice watch that is also $14,000 but measures 42mm x 15.3mm thick. It's hard to say that the two are competing for exactly the same wrists, even if their mid-century aesthetics might share an Eames Chair.
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