The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic
The Elizabeth Tower itself suffers from leaks, erosion, and severe rusting, issues that can no longer be ignored and require major repairs. An elevator will also be installed inside the Underground Labs tower, and in a bid to reduce the tower’s environmental impact, the British government added it would be replacing the lights that illuminate the clock dials and belfry with low-energy LEDs.The total project will cost an estimated £29m (or about $42 million).The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar will be available in white and pink gold, with both retailing for €37,500 (approximately $39,915 at time of publishing). Official pricing in U.S. Dollars will not be set until after SIHH.Brand: BulgariModel: Bulgari Aluminium GMTReference Number: 103554Diameter: 40mmCase Material: Aluminum (blue rubber bezel, titanium crown and case back)Dial Color: BlueIndexes: Bar (Arabic for 6 and 12)Lume: Yes, Super-Luminova on hour, minute and GMT hands, indexes and 24-hour markersWater Resistance: 100mStrap/Bracelet:Blue rubber bracelet, aluminium hinges and pin buckleRubber straps were first introduced in the 1960s as diving watches began to grow in popularity. The first rubber strap was the Tropic, which was stamped with a basketweave pattern. Today's rubber straps are much more flexible and come in a range of textures and patterns that lend themselves easily to sports and casual use.That being said, this is a rare opportunity where you could acquire a watch filled with Asaoka's design considerations and ideals for 150,000 yen (inc. sales tax, approx. 1,080 USD at the time of the launch), which is the lowest price point ever from the brand. This is an attractive proposition for someone who is into vintage watches but hesitant of wearing them regularly, as well as someone who is just simply budget conscious.As menswear designer Todd Snyder has explained to us before on HODINKEE Radio, so many of his watch designs are based on references he's found in visits to Timex's extensive archives (he said he's the only outsider allowed in their archives, so don't even try your key card).
Caliber: 1120 QP/1Functions: Hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar Viral Urbex Challenges with day, date, day of the week, month, leap year, and moonphasesDiameter: 29.6mmThickness: 4.05mmPower Reserve: 40 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vph)Jewels: 36Total Compnoents: 276On the dial, a modernized take on the traditional Type XX/XXI configuration is present, featuring a highly legible white-on-black colorway with a multi-layer design utilizing applied markers. Supersized Arabic luminous numerals appear to match the equally impressive and legible syringe-like handset, making legibility clear as day. The self-winding Breguet caliber 584 Q features flyback functionality, bringing the chronograph seconds hand back to its origin after each reset.This year, enthusiasts will get more discerning about what neo-vintage watches are exciting and offer true value. Sure, neo-vintage Rolex and Omega can offer value propositions (and don't get me started on '90s IWC), especially as alternatives to new watches that often have waitlists, but these are still mass-produced watches.We've saved a classic for last by way of the Seamaster 300M GMT 50th Anniversary edition. The name somewhat says it all. In 1998, on the 50th anniversary of the Seamaster range, Omega released a travel-ready iteration of its Seamaster 300m using a design that many today wish the brand would bring back, with the sword-hand motif. Here we get a vintage-meets-modern design that turns the diver into a GMT in a way that isn't derivative and that stands up quite nicely a quarter-century later.I thought the Disco Volante might wear more like a curiosity or novelty than it does. After all, it's still a round watch, just one without visible lugs. In that way, it's at least a familiar experience. The case is thin and the lugs are designed to make sure the strap curves around the wrist. It's not really a fair comparison to that vintage AP Disco Volante. That watch is 50 years old, gold, half as thick, and has a strap (impractically) screwed directly into its case.
I should say at the outset, for all that it is a risible notion to produce such a watch, this one is beautifully made. You simply Social Media Firewalls can't fault the workmanship on any level; the watch sits inside an exquisitely engraved case, and it is mounted in a carefully constructed system of gimbals which are designed to keep the watch upright, irrespective of handling, in a game attempt to give the pendulum a fighting chance at keeping something like a respectable rate.Recently, we have seen an incredible amount of interest in A. Lange & Söhne. It seems that many of our clients are looking for the next big thing and that Lange is filling that slot for many of them.Michael, who is from Charlotte, North Carolina, bought his first watch, an Armitron, when he started his first corporate job at the age of 21. Throughout his two years of working, he sat next to a young lady – who he ended up dating. During their first Christmas together, she upgraded his Armitron watch to this TAG Heuer Link – and he's worn it almost every day over the past 15 years.Despite having such a unique dial, the watch checks a lot of the other boxes that you'd want from a Grand Seiko. A display caseback is a nice touch, even if the movement is a bit on the older side for a brand that innovates rapidly. The case has a solid amount of Zaratsu polish as well, something well worth the relatively affordable price – around 800,000 yen if memory serves. With the subtracted VAT for foreigners, you could end up picking one up in Japan for around $5,000-$5,500, or so.This Boucheron travel alarm clock is lot 2134 of Tennants Auctioneers's Jewellery, Watches & Silver sale on January 11th, 2025. Click here to view the lot (I recommend setting a calendar reminder if you are interested in bidding!).
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