The Grand Seiko 20th Anniversary Of Spring Drive
With a more slim-lined Fratello team this time, we stepped into one of the Omega offices, to look at the watch we had missed.He creates Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M beautiful leather straps in traditional and classic colors and styles.It seems that a theme is becoming clear in today's Bring a Loupe, as here we have another aviation-related watch coming in hot. Contrasting the rest, this one does not feature a highly functional 24-hour dial, or a handy chronograph function, but instead proved itself in the cockpit by way of its antimagnetic shielding, which proved useful to Scandinavian Airlines Systems pilots who experienced these meddling fields when flying over the North Pole.The HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of TAG Heuer. TAG Heuer is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in HODINKEE, we maintain complete editorial independence.
This watch is based on the famous "The Butterfly driven by love" sketch, a lepidoptera pulling replica Hublot Cupid along on a chariot, and invites us to discover a three-dimensional, red-gold sculpted version powered by an automaton movement.Can this new Seiko SLA037J1 compete with the emotion of a vintage Seiko 62MAS? Having worn both, I can honestly say that the feeling is entirely different.The entire carrier system rotates around the dial once every 20 minutes. At the end of each arm there are, moving clockwise, the dial showing the time; a sort of stylized rocket-ship running seconds indicator, which rotates on its own axis once per minute; a double axis tourbillon (which with the addition of the central point of rotation for the carrier system, is actually a triple axis tourbillon) and a rotating globe cut from an orange sapphire.Generally speaking, the weirder the watch, the better the story. But not always. In this banner piece by our Cara Barrett, discover the interesting backstory of an almost entirely unassuming classic Patek Philippe design, the ref. 3448, and the rare 'Senza Luna' examples therein. Dating back as far as 1962, the 3448 is a gorgeous 37mm perpetual calendar with distinctive angular lugs that were not at all common to Patek's watches at the time.There's something particularly eye-catching about the new Overseas Chronograph that feels new and different from any Overseas I've seen before. The subtle sunburst finish of the dial is great, no question, and the snailed subdials are a great touch. The 18K white gold hour-markers and hours, minutes, seconds, and subdial hands, highlighted with Super-LumiNova, are all quality but expected features here.
Like the previously reviewed Pandial Marina, this watch is light at just 72 grams without the strap. Brellum even lists the weight of the titanium push-button deployant clasp at 8 grams! Regarding the strap, a black technical fabric piece integrates within the lugs.The Double Balancier was patented by Greubel Forsey in 2007, featuring two regulating organs jauntily inclined at 20 degrees.At 6 o’clock a window displays the date in white Arabic numerals on a blue background to form a harmonious Rolex Yacht-Master piece.So far, including the K3, all of Horage's calibers have been created around silicon's advantages.Ultimately, if you're a fan of high-end chronographs, this watch is definitely worth a closer look. The size might be off-putting to some, but it's a product of using a movement originally designed for pocket watches, and for the right collector it won't be an issue.I can't tell you a lot about the movement on this watch but I can tell you that even though I have made a little fun of open casebacks before, I was glad this watch had one. I appreciated being able to see such lovely finishing.
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