We're Coming To London And Glasgow With Grand Seiko
The most surprising model in the collection may be the Prince of Wales check. Its raspberry red enamel is striking but it also perfectly reflects the atypical chic of men’s style today. The other watches are more temperate in their appearance.When I first heard about this, I started doing some poking around, digging into the history of the Smart Car (a partnership between Swatch and Mercedes-Benz) and calling up anyone I could find who might know something. Almost universally, Swatch Group representatives would do everything short of hanging up the phone on me the moment I asked about Belenos or Renata by name. I figured I had to give the story some space to develop, and it looks like it's finally starting to take shape publicly.Caliber: Breitling 01Functions: time, date, 3 register chronographDiameter: 30mmThickness: 7.2mmPower Reserve: 70 hoursWinding: automatic with hand-windingFrequency: 28,800 vphJewels: 47Chronometer Certified: nep toteme yes; COSC Additional Details: column wheel, vertical clutch with self-centering reset hammersUsually, 40% of watch-geeks will suggest the a-ha moment was their first Swatch. Another 40% will bring the classic "it all started when I got a vintage watch from my great-uncle" or whatever relative. The remaining 20% are complicated people (winks). I belong to the first 40%. I did enjoy my first Swatch and remember putting it under my pillow at night. The model had some rococo-arabesques on it. I can't really explain why, but it felt reassuring.Paired with a black strap, and having no discernable markers to keep accurate time, this is the best representation of a Must de Cartier. It is about the design, it is about the vibe, and it is about enjoying Cartier and the Tank for its iconic look. And it still allows you to enter the Cartier ecosystem at a very reasonable price point.
Before I go into my thoughts on this watch, I want to preface this story with a pretty important caveat. I do not like the old Da Vinci watches. I never have. Sorry. BUT, I am always open to new things and am sometimes pleasantly surprised when I don't let my preconceptions get the better of me. This is one of those instances.Believe it or not, there is a method to the madness of this column, and the ordering of every week's picks factors into it. Sometimes it's fun to build up to something big, and sign off for the week with a bang, but other times the proverbial big kahuna is so good that you can't help but spill the beans early. This week, I thought I'd come right out of the replica piaget horloges gate with what's undoubtedly one of the most impressive watches to be offered this year. And no, it's not a Rolex or a Patek.Sometimes I write something pithy here – something that, in my mind, works as a joke, or a piece of commentary, or something to get you interested. Not today. Today, I don't need to come up with anything, because Seiko has just announced an update to their 62MAS-inspired Prospex SPB line of 200m dive watches. All four of the new models have 40.5mm-wide steel cases and a price point that is a fraction of that established by the truly lovely SLA017.During a trip back to Washington D.C. to visit my parents, we handed her a box. Not knowing what it was, she opened it. It wasn't until she saw the green outer-box that she had any clue what was going on. When she saw it for the first time, she got pretty emotional. Then she tried it on and stood in front of the mirror for a long, long, time. After the emotions wore off, and she had the watch on for an hour or so, I asked, "Can I try it on?"There were some FANTASTIC sports watches this year, but there was one that really rose above the rest for me...and it's the LeMans Daytona. But Mark beat me to that one, so I guess I'm stuck with Rexhep's Chronomètre Antimagnétique. JK JK JK.Major changes were announced at Richemont this morning as the Switzerland-based luxury goods holding company put out a press release stating that Louis Ferla, currently CEO of Vacheron Constantin, will succeed Cyrille Vigneron as CEO of Cartier starting September 1, 2024. On the same date, Catherine Rénier, currently CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, will succeed Van Cleef & Arpel's current CEO (now Richemont CEO), Nicolas Bos.
In the Breguet, on the other hand, we have a watch with very much a modern, luxury sports watch feel, especially in combination with the metal bracelets. The Breguet is a watch that, characteristically, revels very much in the accumulation of detail while the Blancpain takes fake cartier tank cintree watches pride in more or less exactly the opposite approach to design aesthetics.Brand: Worn & Wound x Christopher Ward Model: C65 Sandstorm and Sandstorm Blackout Diameter: 38mmThickness: 11.6mmLug to lug: 43.6mm Lug width: 20mmCase Material: Steel (with optional black DLC) Dial Color: Sand or steelLume: Super-LumiNovaWater Resistance: 150 metersStrap/Bracelet: Steel bracelet (for non DLC) or a canvas strapThis interview has been edited for length and clarity.Photos courtesy of David Carson.Liz Stinson is the executive editor of Eye on Design, published by AIGA. Her writing on design has also appeared in Wired, Curbed, Gizmodo, Architectural Digest, and The Wall Street Journal Magazine.____________If you're a crypto-enthusiast who likes the watches, it will be worth catching the special edition, with their extra attention to finishing on the case and matching steel bracelet. There's also something extra-cool about the mineral crystal display top that feels like a nice homage to display casebacks, while doubling down on the Tron vibes. Plus, call me old-fashioned, but I appreciate that you get a physical object to go with your digital one.Beyond the technical details, the caliber 1.96 is a beautifully finished movement, with Geneva stripes, hand-finished anglage, and circular graining on the baseplates. With this hand-finishing, along with the technical details, it's easy to see why the movement took Switzerland by surprise when it went into production in 1996 (the "1.96" moniker is shorthand for the year commercial production began on the caliber).The new UR-150 "Scorpion" is priced at CHF 88,000 for the "Titan" without PVD-coating and CHF 89,000 for the "Dark" model seen above. While this is not a value proposition, I might let my blacked-out watch bias and love of Urwerk show when I say it's certainly a cool offering from Urwerk.
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