The Jaquet Droz Pocket Watch Paillonée, And The Art Of The Real Deal
Brand: TudorModel: Black Bay Chrono S&GReference Number: 79363NDiameter: 41mmCase Material: Stainless steel, solid gold, gold-capped steelDial Color: Black with gold-tone sub-dialsIndexes: AppliedLume: Yes, on hands and indices Water Resistance: 200 metersStrap/Bracelet: Riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet, brown leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with buckle. The watch also comes with a Bund strap in leather.The fact that flown Speedmasters had to be returned means that we do not see them coming up for sale in the secondary market. In 2017, a Speedmaster replika TAG Heuer flown on Apollo 7 and then stolen in 1989, was recovered, but Moonwatches that actually went to the Moon (Apollo 7 did not; it was an orbital shakedown cruise for later, full-on Moon expeditions) are not, for obvious reasons, ever available for sale.Though the auction house has only provided a single photo go the watch, you can get a decent idea of the condition that it's in, which is very good. Everything on its dial seems to check out, and would appear to be near spotless, save for what might be a blemish near the nine o'clock marker. The case looks to be rather sharp, as well, though I'd suggest asking for additional photos, as there's no harm in confirming the true condition of the watch before committing to a purchase.This lot, no. 80, is a classic example of Cartier clockmaking during the high Deco period. Completed in 1925, it's perhaps a bit more restrained than some of Cartier's work from the Belle Epoque era prior to World War I, but it's still a rather opulent clock, with an imposing carved onyx case, jade plaques on the pedestal base, a mother of pearl dial, and a red enamel circle with diamond accents setting off the whole thing.Across all the CIC watches, the unusual case construction is one of my favorite features. By cutting out part of the edge of the midcase, Lederer has revealed more of the movement from a variety of angles. The caseback is actually attached with adhesive rather than screws, which I believe makes it less serviceable, but I don't know anyone that would be willing to service the watch besides Lederer's team.
The version on top has gone tropical and its bezel insert has also faded substantially, whereas the example below has a dial that has not gone tropical. In keeping with what we saw with the 6542s, these early 1675s also have chapter rings.The last time the name "Triton Spirotechnique" appeared on this site was in 2014. Eric Wind made an interesting point in a Bring A Loupe installment about the positioning of the watch, saying "an advertisement from 1963 shows that these watches were actually more expensive than Rolex and Tudor Submariners in France at the time. The Triton was over 682 francs while the Rolex Submariner was 670 francs and the Tudor Submariner was 550 francs."Like its old-school sibling, Speedmaster Chrono Chime has the same rose engine-turned-guilloche finishing for the sub-dials. With the included Sedna Gold bracelet, the Speedmaster Chrono Chime weighs replica Omega a whopping 326 grams. While neither watches are specifically limited, both are numbered editions and Omega has stated that production will be limited to just a handful of models per year.Everything about the new GRNR (for lack of a consensus nickname yet) is basically like every other 126710. The stainless steel case is 40mm by 12mm, and the watch comes with choice of Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. The watch is powered by a caliber 3285 with 70 hours of power reserve, and has the independent jumping hour hand to skip time zones when you travel from place to place.
Collector's Weekly has an intriguing story about a young collector who bought his first watch online in 2014: a $20 Russian-made Raketa. His interest in watches was piqued by the purchase, to put it mildly, and his collection now numbers over a thousand Soviet-era watches.Brand: Seiko (Prospex)Model: The 1970 Diver's Re-Creation Limited EditionReference Number: SLA033Diameter: 45mmThickness: 13mmCase Material: Stainless steel with "super-hard" coatingDial Color: BlackIndexes: AppliedLume: Yes, on hands and indexesWater Resistance: 200 metersStrap/Bracelet: Waffle pattern silicone strapThat must all be well in the past, with Lange doubling down on one of its most complicated watches to date. And that's good news whether you're buying or not. Technical watchmaking at this level is something everything enthusiast should cheer.This is flat-out an excellent vintage watch. I finally understand what all those users on the forums were gushing over; here I am gushing right along with them. Head over to the Shop to gush right along with us.In Watch of the Week, we repliki Bell & Ross invite HODINKEE staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. This week's columnist is Zachary Story. Story works as director of marketing at Core Club – a private club in New York – for over a year now, and holds the establishment close to his heart as it was a special place for his late father. Today, he's written a story about a Rolex Submariner that honors his dad.Even at 13.4mm thick (give or take) it still wears well. Voutilainen puts a lot of thought into the case shape and the lower lug placement on the midcase, plus the dropoff of the teardrop lugs, hugs the wrist quite nicely. And again, despite how it might look here in a flat plane, it is legible enough to not think twice about it.
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