The Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Ref. SBGR321
To know Gong is to feel welcomed into his world, a byproduct of his natural warmth and a career in diversity, equity, and inclusion in banking and tech. "Throughout my corporate career," he says, "I was always focused on creating spaces where people could show up as their authentic selves." But in 2020 when so many of us were taking stock of who we are and how we were spending our time, Gong decided to combine his skills with his passion.By the 1940s, you could find bumper movements in watches like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Mido, and yes, Alpina. And just as quick as they link took off, bumper movements were gone. By the late 1950s, Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre had moved to better, more affordable automatic movement designs.And this year, for Dubai Watch Week, Chopard has announced a new entry into the fold for the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C collection: the 18k white gold L.U.C Strike One. This 25-piece limited edition chimes with the passing of each hour on a Chopard-patented monobloc sapphire. The 40mm case utilizes Chopard's ethical 18k white gold material. It contains an integrated pusher with the crown and the watch is an amazingly 9.86mm in thickness.Of course, AP launched the Caliber 7138 in its two main collections: the Royal Oak (obviously), which includes a pair of 41mm by 9.4mm steel watches with a blue dial and a sand gold watch with a color-matched dial, and the Code 11.59, which has a 41mm by 10.6mm white gold case.I spent two days earlier this year wearing, fiddling with, and just living with these watches, so let's examine them, starting with the biggest change.
Hans-Kristian Hoejsgaard, who became Non-Executive Chairman at Bonhams in late 2020, wants the 229-year-old auction house's watch auctions to be part of the solution, not the link problem. Hoejsgaard is no stranger to either the luxury or watch worlds – his past roles have included President and CEO of the Timex Group, President and CEO of Georg Jensen, CEO of Davidoff, and non-Executive Director and CEO of MCH Group, which formerly ran the Baselworld watch trade show.Last year was the most watches we've ever done, but this year we're slowing down a bit, he says. "I don't want to do too much; I'd rather do more interesting designs, instead. So we'll keep the production number slightly below 10,000 for now. I think that's a good number for the brand."My path to this funky '70s Aquadive Time-Depth Model 50 is one of slowly discovering watches within the context of their history as tools for difficult and adventurous jobs and experiences. I started wearing a Timex while I was working in wildland fires, where watches are crucial for keeping to a schedule and timing vitals for those in emergency medical situations – like pulse, breathing rate, etc.There have been flashes of brilliance – 2021's Offshore Diver Khaki was a personal favorite, as is the audacity to make a Grande Complication skeleton Offshore with a hilarious "don't you dare take me into heavy rain" 20m water resistance for an Offshore – but nothing ever struck home for me. But it was a winning formula for AP, a blessing and a curse that has proven hard to break over the years.
The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph: Case, link white gold, 41mm x 13.75mm, 30 meters water resistant; movement, caliber 2952, 32.6mm x 9.13mm, self-winding flying tourbillon with flyback chronograph; frequency, 21,600 vph, running in 40 jewels with 65-hour power reserve. Price, CHF 240,000. Limited Edition, 50 pieces worldwide. More at Audemarspiguet .At last, tap "Share," enjoy the likes, and then get right back to shooting. I've been shooting watches for more than a decade, and I still learn something from every new watch I find in front of my lens.In true vintage-watch nerd fashion, the bracelet is my favorite aspect of this piece. Seeing what is so, so close to the legendary Speedmaster flat-link bracelet executed in pink gold just gets my blood pumping. Sure, Omega made a Speedmaster in yellow gold, but never pink or rose. This bracelet is so classically vintage Omega in its style and works incredibly well on this Seamaster. Hit the Shop to get all the details.And that's a good thing. We don't always need 1:1 reproductions of past models. Watches don't always have to be serious. With the work that Ferdi Porsche is doing up at Mankei, this very well could be an iconic watch in 20 years that represents the start of a new era of something cool with Porsche and Porsche Design.
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