Hands-On: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Edition Boutique Canada
The first thing I took a closer look at was the new case. Measuring in at 41mm across and 11.5mm thick, this is the slimmest and smallest Ressence model produced yet. That on its own was enough to get me intrigued. I've always found that the 42mm Type 1 wears smaller than you'd expect (even being 13mm thick), but that doesn't mean I haven't wished it to be a bit falsi breitling orologi smaller for my less-than-hulking wrist.The movement at work here is, of course, in-house. It's the Caliber 9465 MC, and it's a doozy. The entirely thing is ornately skeletonized, with the outer portion featuring open-worked renditions of the exploded Cartier Roman numerals. In the center, you can see most of the gearing below the hands at work too. The movement has a 52-hour power reserve and is made up of 286 total components, 26 of which are jewels.As usual, mechanical watches are driving the growth. Exports of mechanicals are up 9.0% in both units and value year-to-date. Swiss quartz watch exports continue to decline in units, down 2.0% so far this year. They are up 6.3% in value, however. Watches in the lower priced market segment had a "significant downturn" in August, the FH said. Watches with wholesale prices below CHF 500 declined 9% in units and 10.2% in value.Kurniawan's case is a perfect storm of money, desire, and swirling toxic masculinity – one of the few women interviewed for the documentary, says the New Yorker, well-respected expert Maureen Downey, says that, "When I was younger, I'd walk into the tastings and everyone would immediately ask whose date I was." And according to Downey, Kurniawan is merely the tip of the iceberg – as we'll see.The result is a welcome blend of presence without undue mass, and the whole effect is only strengthened by a simple but very comfortable flat link bracelet. Tapered and fitted with solid end links, the Fortitude's bracelet is simple to size (single-sided screwed links!) and refined without being fussy. Not only does it feel excellent for the price, but also in terms of how well it matches the look and feel of the Fortitude's case and dial, at times even wearing like an integrated bracelet.If you haven't read up on the ENG300 and its development, I highly recommend adding this story from Robin Swithinbank to your reading list as Bremont has gone for maximum transparency in introducing their new movement. But, for those of you who frequently leave your own mother on read, I'll give you a quick cheat sheet.
Dating back to 1965, this particular example is in absolutely excellent condition, with an unpolished case, a clean dial, and a crisp hand set. Additionally, it has a “WOG” import engraving on one of the movement’s bridges, indicating that it was produced for the American market. This 765 AVI is being offered in Geneva by Roy & Sacha Davidoff for CHF 18,500. Click here to see the full listing.Hayes distinctly remembers buying the first watch after his self-titled debut album was nominated for three Grammys in 2013. This was the first time he was comfortable spending a significant amount of money on a watch. He'd be wearing it at the Grammys, after all. He was waffling between two Bell & Ross models; one was about $400 more than the other.Additionally, the top of each of the caliber PF361's bridges are satin-finished, while the jewel sinks, screw heads, and wheel leaves are individually mirror-polished. And finally, despite it being difficult to see (look above the top-left column wheel in the above image), I also wanted to point out a subtle engraving on the mainspring barrel that features a repeating pattern shaped like teardrop lugs – one of Parmigiani's most recognizable aesthetic attributes.The Tudor Submariner is a classic with a twist – a kind of late-breaking curveball – that not everyone you meet is going to know about, as long as most of the people you meet aren't watch freaks. The vast majority of folks out there in the world are probably unaware of the Subs' parallel lives within two different brands.The ceramic bezel is the other big change to the look. There's now a surrounding ring in the same metal as the case; the ceramic doesn't stretch to the edge of the bezel itself. It's a practical goedkope gucci horloge measure – ceramic's great and durable, unless you happen to knock a bezel edge pretty hard and shatter the whole thing.The Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase sets out to be a dressy watch with an old-school complication for someone who's not all the way into watches yet. It's clean and well-executed, even if I can quibble with how it wears on the wrist and it doesn't exactly pass the "under the cuff" test. But who's wearing a cuff nowadays anyway?
The high price might have been the thing that immediately got people talking about this watch at the SIHH, but if that was the only story worth telling, the RM 53-01 would already be forgotten. However, this is a watch that demonstrates what Richard Mille is best at, which is that perfect combination of attention-grabbing marketing, genuine technological innovation, and devil-may-care styling that makes it a billige gucci ure true 21st-century watch brand.Now, the English style is a different animal. English makers tended to go for something more austere. Usually, an English watchmaker would take a movement and use a mercury gold-gilded, frosted finish for the plate and bridges, and often they stuck with full plate or ¾ plate construction. They also tended to prefer heavier construction overall – making ultra-thin watches was never really part of the English or for that matter, the American watchmaking tradition, either.This week's collection is all about those surprises. Rich brings a different kind of Explorer to the table, Saori makes the case for a white gold case (and bracelet) from Vacheron, and Sean rhapsodizes on the joys of the slide rule with a Juvenia Arithmo.Check out the slideshow above for the full drop, read on for our out-of-the-box picks of the week, or head on over to the Shop for the full selection.This film is shot in such a way that everything is in near darkness. So we never get a clear glimpse of this piece, but we see its silhouette every other frame. Baylor is asthmatic and constantly fidgets with his inhaler to relieve stress. The camera is often cutting to close-ups of his hand, which give ample opportunity to see the watch.Over 4,000 people responded in kind and Chu and Bennehamias spent the past few months combing through the submissions to select their winners. The process was intense, I imagine, because they weren't simply selecting the best or best looking sketch, the winning watches will be produced, in some form, pending feasibility. So while my idea of a Royal Oak made entirely out of acorns may have been brilliant it would not have been selected due to its difficulty to manufacture.
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