The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor Skeleton
The artist: RThe Aubry Doxas were markedly different from the curvy tonneau cases of yore. Instead, they were blocky, thick, and featured an oversized bezel. This shift in design was pervasive during the '80s. In the automotive world, curves had entirely gone out of style by 1980; instead, the decade was marked by box flares, right angles, and square panels. If the Aubry Doxas were a truck, they'd be a Jeep Wagoneer.As an analog obsessive constantly waffling between philosophically embracing or rejecting digital horology, I found that Venkatesan's essay helped me understand the Apple Watch in a new way, as a condensed history of modern horological design. After reading, I learned to appreciate how mechanical horology has informed the development of digital watch design.I think this unified replica Panerai sizing is actually the most significant aspect of the Aluminium. 40mm is a unisex sweet spot that isn’t too large or too small for many wrists, and you can choose the model purely by the function and/or the color you want. For example, you could purchase two models with different complications and share both with your partner. Surprisingly, this “feature” isn’t too common if you look at the current offerings from other brands.As for the price, no doubt it's a lot to ask for a time-and-date Zenith, even if it is in line with last year's steel Defy releases (that is to say, a slight premium). But more and more brands are doing titanium at prices lower than this. Still, not a lot of other watches look like the Defy. So if titanium retrofuturism is your vibe, look no further.Sure watches are functional, but nobody wears them out of necessity anymore. If you choose to wear a watch, you're making a statement via your wrist. A Seiko diver is just as much of a statement as a yellow gold Daytona. They are just two very different statements.The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon has an ethical 18K gold case measuring 36.5 x 8.2mm. The caliber L.U.C 96.24-L is COSC-certified and carries the Geneva Seal: Micro-rotor with 189 components, measuring 27.4 x 3.3mm – twin barrels provide a 65-hour power reserve. Gold dial with hand guilloche, rhodium-plated markers and hands. Price: CHF 127,500 (~$150,000). Limited to 10 numbered pieces. For more, see the watch's page on Chopard's site.
The Caliber L899 automatic movement (based on the ETA A31.L91) fills out the caseback quite nicely, offering 64 hours of power reserve, the aforementioned moonphase indicator with date display at six o'clock, and hours, minutes, and seconds from the central axis. It also comes with a signed Longines rotor featuring a cut-out in the shape of the company's winged hourglass logo.The Silver Swan automaton was bought by John and Joséphine Bowes for their museum at the price of scrap. It went from being revered by Mark Twain in a Paris exhibition to being considered worthless. I can’t imagine what it would fetch if it went up for sale today.Ben: Also at Sotheby'sMalaika (Malaika Crawford, Style Editor): I'm heading into this cool, calm, and collected. No hype means more time to look at things I actually like. I pas cher TAG Heuer breezed past the Rolex professional watches at the physical previews over the weekend and went straight for the diamonds and Cartier.Ben (Benjamin Clymer, Hodinkee Founder & Executive Chairman): Wise choice. Things feel dramatically more "normal" this year. And that's a wonderful thing, in my opinion.I know it's not particularly creative, but I'd love the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 (sterling silver) model to get the same treatment that the Black Bay 58 Bronze has and give it a full sterling silver bracelet. Tudor went pretty far outside the box to even release a sterling silver watch, so why stop there?
Richard Mille is back at it again with a new limited edition series that combines their TPT case construction with a equipped movement that is the evolution of that seen in the award-winning RM 012 Tourbillon. Available in a handful of colorways and various signature Richard Mille materials, the new RM 12-01 Tourbillon blends specialized movement architecture and a classic complication with RM's recognizable chunky but easy-wearing tonneau case shape.Then we had a very nice article from Jason Heaton, at HODINKEE. For me, that was the moment I realized that this could become a proper full-time job, not just some little game we play. Since then, we've grown in a very organic way; we've never done any advertising repliki Panerai or marketing. We don't have sales people. We're very product-driven; the product does the marketing and talking on our behalf.In Watch of the Week, we invite HODINKEE staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. The author of this story is quarterback Aaron Rodgers, the future Hall-of-Fame quarterback for the Green Bay Packers. We caught up with him a few weeks ago in Green Bay, Wisconsin. Here's what he had to say.Astronomic Calendar (9 Total): 30. Sky chart (calibrated for Shanghai) 31. Sidereal hours 32. Sidereal minutes 33. Sunrise time (calibrated for Shanghai) 34. Sunset time (calibrated for Shanghai) 35. Equation of time 36. Length of the day (calibrated for Shanghai) 37. Length of the night (calibrated for Shanghai) 38. Phases and age of the moon, one correction every 1027 years.Brand: Nomos GlashütteModel: Club Campus and Club Campus 38Reference Number: 718 (Club Campus Starlight); 719 (Club Campus Night Sky); 721 (Club Campus 38 Starlight); 722 (Club Campus 38 Night Sky)Diameter: 36mm and 38.6mm Thickness: 8.2mm and 8.5mm Case Material: Stainless steelDial Color: Starlight and Night SkyIndexes: Super-LumiNovaLume: YesWater Resistance: 10 atmStrap/Bracelet: Vegan grey velour strapWith the specs out of the way, it all comes down to the in-the-metal experience, and for me (a bit of a Tudor nerd, especially in the GMT space), this is both an excellent watch in and of itself and an excellent hint at what might be on the horizon for Tudor.
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