Summer Is For Wearing The Watches You Normally Wouldn't
Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultreModel: Master Control DateReference Number: Q4018420Diameter: 40mmThickness: 8.8mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: SilverIndexes: Applied Arabic numeralsLume: YesWater Resistance: 50mStrap/Bracelet: Novonappa calf strapBut for all the naysayers' concerns about the durability of the Bioceramic MoonSwatch, the chronograph was running the entire flight, and miraculously the watch survived despite the 33.5km-high, 190mph flight that reached temperatures as low as -65ºC. Sure, it's not space but it's also not nothing.Today we have a new color altogether (at 41mm), paired with a physical upgrade as well. That's right, Chopard has taken the AE and gone the ultra-thin route, creating a watch replika Cartier that is now just 8mm in thickness (the OG is 9.7mmm thick for comparison).All this to say, I wasn't the only one excited by the recent release of The Polerouter, the first book dedicated to the Universal Genève Polerouter. The book begins with the story of the Polerouter (née Polarouter) and its connection to the first Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) commercial trans-polar flights in 1954. The Polerouter documents the lineage of mechanical Polerouters, from the first SAS Polarouter to the refined Polerouter Date to the rugged Polerouter Sub.Vacheron used to have a 37mm Overseas with an oddball date window at 9 o'clock – one of those design quirks brands would throw in to remind you it isn't the full-size version. That Overseas is gone from the lineup, and I wouldn't be surprised to see a revamped 37mm that stays true to the 41mm Overseas back in the collectionBy downsizing the Overseas to 34.5mm but otherwise keeping it pretty much the same as the 41mm, Vacheron is updating how it thinks about the Overseas collection. That is to say: more options for more wrist sizes, whether you're a guy or gal, and whether your wrist is bigger or smaller. If you want a smaller Overseas with diamonds there are still plenty of those – Vacheron also introduced a diamond set 35mm Overseas in 2023.Recently, GQ ran the numbers and pointed out that, while it might feel like it, watch releases aren't actually getting smaller. Brands are releasing more small watches, but those releases are extensions of their existing catalogs. Tudor may have released the 37mm Black Bay 54, but the larger Black Bays aren't going anywhere.
Following the meet-up, we held our second pop-up shop at Harrods from December 1-4, offering an amazing replica Bvlgari selection of vintage timepieces and a bevy of watch straps, travel accessories, and tools. Throughout the weekend we met hundreds of London-based readers (and one particularly dedicated reader who came from Copenhagen for the day), and had a ball doing it. Thanks to all that showed up!With the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, Tudor splits the difference between the Black Bay and the original Tudor dive watches from the late '50s. It balances a smaller case size and throw-back dial and bezel details with a brand new movement and modern build quality. It's an homage that doesn't have to feel like one if you don't want it to. It moves seamlessly between the worlds of the old and the new in a way that feels unique and refreshing.Caliber: 502.3 DR1Functions: Moonphase and age indicator, date, power-reserve indicatorThickness: 3.65 mmDiameter: 12 lignesPower Reserve: 45 hoursWinding: Mechanical self-windingFrequency: 3 hertzJewels: 37Additional Details: 18-carat-gold rotor, engine-turned by hand. Breguet balance wheel. Reverse in-line lever escapement with silicon horns. Flat balance spring in silicon.The way Hamilton has pushed the design in this recent release is just playful enough while still exercising plenty of restraint. The muted color tones and matte finishes respect tradition, while the khaki (that's sage green to the rest of us) and lunar dial are fresh. It demonstrates that the design can indeed evolve. For too many horological designs that've been in production for decades, sometimes it feels like there's simply nowhere left to go.Caliber: 1847 MCFunctions: Medium model- hours, minutes, seconds; large model - hours, minutes, seconds, date.Diameter: 25.6mmThickness: 3.7mmPower Reserve: 40 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)Jewels: 23While I figure this is relatively clear in the above text, I really like the look of the Black Bay GMT. I like that it’s less shiny than a modern GMT-Master II, and I like that it preserves much of the appeal of the original Black Bay design language.
Unlike its plastic-cased, quartz-powered cousins, this piece is differentiated thanks to the presence of a solid platinum case and an automatic caliber. Yes, you read that right, a platinum-cased Swatch. As one might expect, repliki Breitling this precious metal entered the equation in honor of a special occasion – the watchmaker’s tenth anniversary after first revolutionizing watchmaking back in 1983. It also features an astral influenced dial, along with a double-tiered, coin-edge detailing on the crown.Despite its longstanding history in watchmaking, the Royal Oak has come to define Audemars Piguet's modern context. What started as a daring up-market take on a sports watch would eventually evolve to include the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, a synthesis of old school AP calendar watchmaking and the brand's then avant-garde octagonal sports watch.As you can guess if you read my Week On The Wrist with the Rattrapante Honeygold over the summer, I genuinely adore this watch. The Zeitwerk has always appealed to me for its off-kilter personality. And the use of the Lumen dial format does nothing to dissuade that.Torres's first reaction was to sketch some designs out, which he subsequently brought to Cook, who worked as an industrial designer in their company. Was it possible to create a watch that could take a beating, pass muster at the watercooler, and remain affordable? Turns out, it was, and thus, Vaer was born.A year on from the watch's 50th Anniversary, the releases from AP a week or so ago gave two examples of what you can do without messing with that balanced 39mm by 8.1mm package. Both new "Jumbo" Extra-Thin releases are striking in their own ways but examples of what you can do if you're boxed into the corner of being an icon in form and dimension. How do you iterate on that box and what's inside it?
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